


DIARY OF ONE OF THE ORIGINAL COLONISTS 
OF NEW GLARUS, 1845 



TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN OF MATHIAS DUERST 

BY 

JOHN LUCHSINGER 



[From Wisconsin Historical Collections, Vol. XV.] 



MADISON 

State Historical Society of Wisconsin 
1900 



DIARY OF ONE OF THE ORIGINAL COLONISTS 
OF NEW GLARUS, 184^ 



TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN OF MATHIAS DUERST 

BY 

JOHN LUCHSINGER 



[From Wisconsin Historical Collections, Vol. XV.J 



MADISON 

State Historical Society of Wisconsin 

1900 



292 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS. [vol. XV. 



DIARY OF ONE OF THE ORIGINAL COLONISTS OF 
NEW GLARUS, 1845/ 



TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN OF MATHIAS DUERST, BY 
JOHN LUCHSINGER. 

On the 15th of April, 1845, I took leave of my friends 
and neighbors, and went to Mitlodi and staid at the sign of 
the Horse, overnight. Next morning, the 16th, accom- 
panied by my Brother J. Balth I took the path to the 
Biasca expecting to meet my dear family and relatives. 
Our committee had also arrived. I believed that every- 
thing had been well arranged; but heavens, how we were de- 
ceived. Even before we arrived at Rapperschwyl we asked 
the captain of our vessel "Feider, " where we were to lodge 
and board. He answered that is your business, that his 
business was merely to carry and not to feed and lodge us. 
Upon that there was uproar among us. 

At Rapperschwyl all went to the New Ship inn, in the City 
Court, at my instance, because of the prior good reputation 
of the house. But here we found avarice in play; we had 
to pay double prices for everything, even for a bed 8 Bat- 
zen [40 cents]. I would warn every one to beware of this 
baptized Jew. 

'This is the diary from which Mr. Luchsinger freely drew, in his article, 
" The Planting of the Swiss Colony at New Glarus, Wis.," in Wis. Hist. 
CoUs., xii, pp. 335-382. To that article the reader is referred. The 
original of the diary is owned by Miss Salome Duerst, of New Glarus, but 
has been deposited, for safe keeping, in the library of this Society. It is 
of great value as a first-hand report of the trials and impressions of the 
earliest Swiss immigrants to Wisconsin. It will be remembered that these 
colonists were from the Swiss Canton of Glarus, and emigrated to Amer- 
ica under cantonal auspices, for Glarus had become overpopulated. — Eo . 

TMP96-007553 



1 845-] DIARY OF A NEW GLARUS COLONIST. 293 

On the morning of the 17th we rose early, even too early, 
for we had to wait a full hour at the landiog in the cold 
rain, with our little ones; we were finally allowed to go on 
board the vessel; some got on The tug boat that pulled ours. 
Our leaders, with some others, went into a room and dis- 
cussed our dreary condition; the most of us had very little 
money. Paulus Grob, a brother of the first leader, came to us 
and figured everything and found that nothing lacked except 
the money for our support on the journey, an omission for 
which we had to blame our Judicial Parish Council. At ten 
o'clock in the evening of this, to us, everything but joyful 
day, George Legler requested me to describe our condi- 
tion in writing, to be sent to our Parish Board, and while 
the others slept, I carried out the request and in as com- 
pact sentences as possible described our condition and in 
the morning a number of us signed the letter and sent it. 
I had no time to make a copy of it. We had very bad 
weather; all of the male persons had to remain on deck 
without cover, because the cabins were stuffed full of human 
beings; in such a manner we arrived at Zurich, but now the 
trouble only began. Shipmaster Korner said that only pas- 
sage for 155 persons had been contracted for and not 193, 
that his vessel was not large enough, and that there was 
much more baggage than had been represented to him, and 
than he had expected. He hired 3 large four horse wagons, 
each at 50 florins for the women and children, but even 
then there were 30 such unprovided for, although the 
wagons were crowded to suffocation; a fourth wagon was 
prepared in haste as the rain fell in streams; some of us 
had to do some running. We went to see Mr. Landaman 
Blumer [member of Swiss Diet] ; he heard us and promised 
to be surety for additional expense to the amount of 30 flor- 
ins, and besides gave us a gratuity [of] 18 florins. Well, we 
then proceeded onward in God's Name. The male persons 
remained in the vessel. What we often consider misfor- 
tunes may by Heaven's Guidance become good fortunes. Oh 
how glad we were that our little ones were not with us in 
the boat, for we nearly perished with the cold; thus w e ar 



294 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS. [vol. XV. 

rived at Laufenburg at nearly dark. We helped Mr. Korner 
to convey the baggage from the vessel to wagons, and 
again into another boat. In Laufenburg we lodged in th® 
Ship Hotel, where we were decently treated, but the most 
of us slept for the first time in our lives on straw, in a cold 
dancing hall on the floor; because of the cold we got up an 
hour before daylight and walked around the town to keep 
warm; finally about 8 o'clock we got on the vessel and were 
received with ill-pointed joking questions. 

Just before we got to Basle we caught sight of the wagons 
wherein our people were packed (there is no other fitting 
term) going over the Basle bridge. So that we all arrived 
at the same time at Basle to our great satisfaction. On our 
landing we were met by the Business Manager of Chris. 
David, named Basler, who received us in a friendly man- 
ner which we found to our sorrow was always the case 
when an advantage was to be gained. We had new difficul- 
ties to fight against, in which we were warmly assisted by 
Mr. Barthol Hefty of Haslen ; he no doubt has written home 
of our miserable condition. 

Some of us also visited Teacher Glarner who received 
us with kind hospitality and fed us with bread and wine — 
he accompanied us to our lodging, our hosts were kind 
people, heaven reward them. I would recommend them to 
everyone; their Inn is the Sign of the Red Ox. Our little 
Caspar lay very sick there, and we received all possible 
aid and attention. 

After the disorder in our affairs was settled, we again 
beganour journey from Basle, on the 19th at 4 o'clock P. M. 
After four hours journey we stopped at Scheinweiler a 
Baden Village. There again some wandered ashore and 
others remained in the vessel; I had determined to remain, 
although my boy was yet sick and my wife was distressed; 
there came a Border Guard to me and requested that I go with 
him. I followed him with my family ignorant whither. He 
led us four to a Stone house where lived an old man with two 
single daughters they gave us coffee and my wife and chil- 
dren could once more lie in a good bed, and I in the room 



l845-] DIARY OF A NEW GLARUS COLONIST. 295 

on straw, but warmly covered; we all rested well. In the 
morning they again gave us good Coffee and bread, for all 
this I paid them voluntarily 5 Batzen [25 cents] ; they even 
would hardly accept that, they asked nothing. We again 
set out early on the 20th I was very sorry to take up the 
children out of their gentle sleep. At noon this day we 
halted on a lonely shore and went on shore to eat our frugal 
dinner. In the evening we arrived at a grand Hotel where 
only three who had plenty of money and no families had 
the luck to get beds. I obtained a room with two beds 
t a reasonable price, because I ran in advance before the 
■crowd came. I got my people to bed at once. This Hotel 
belongs to the Mar-Grave of Baden. The place is called 
Rheinbad. 

We were detained for health inspection so that we were 
unable to start before 9 A. M. on the 21st. The same evening 
we arrived at Kehl, a Baden town ; we again had difficulty 
in getting beds for our wives and children, the men slept 
on straw in the barroom of the inn; but no one need imag- 
ine that it cost nothing to sleep on the long feathers, we 
had to pay from 3 to 4 kreuzer a piece [6 to 8 cents]. 
Kehl is a very fine town, we went about a quarter of a 
league to see the new railway and marvelled at that work 
of human hands. On the 22nd we started as late as 8 A. M. 
because of the custom house officers' inspection, and ar- 
rived in the evening at a Bavarian Village where we were 
lodged simple good and cheap. A schoppen brandy [one 
and a half pints] cost 5 kreuzer [10 cents]. A like measure 
of wine 3 kr. [6 cents]. Coffee for each person the same. 
On the 23rd we arrived at Mannheim there we had to 
wait two and one half days for the Steam boat which ar- 
rived on the 25th in the night. Our leaders went to see 
Mr. Lanz the agent, he said he would provide cheap lodg- 
ings, about 100 of us were lodged in the Deer Inn, where 
all slept on straw on the floor of the dance hall, cost us 3 
kr. each, 12 beds. It cost 6 krs. per person two in a bed; 
those who were well supplied with money or for other rea- 
sons did not relish such lodging sought other quarters. It 



2Q6 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS. [vol. XV, 

would have been better had we never submitted to such 
management. We had to provide provisions at Mannheim 
for two and one-half days as no cooking was allowed on the 
steamboat, not even to warm some milk for our little chil- 
dren. At this place the supply of money of Pr Legler and 
his son gave out. So we were obliged to attack the com- 
mon treasury for their relief, I myself had also to pay 25 
francs for excess of baggage -from Zurich to Basle, in addi- 
tion to the food provided by Mr. David, which were com- 
mon expenses. 

So Legler and I had to draw on the common fund, and 
apparently we shall use up the whole of that fund designed 
to assist our beginning at the settlement, before we get 
there. A splendid arrangement we are under, but no one 
need wonder at it when you consider what miserable 
fellows sit in our Parish Council, who hardly know their 
a. b. c. and the better informed can barely write their 
names, let alone organize any sensible measure. Our town 
meeting resolution of April 1844 stated in positive terms 
that the head of each family should receive sufficient sup- 
port and that our expenses should be defrayed to our des- 
tination. Had I not believed this would be done I certainly 
would not have ventured with one and one-half florins [60 
cts.] to start on such a journey. I never would have be- 
lieved that I was expected to provide food for four or five 
weeks. I hardly know whether to ascribe this state of 
things to a devilish malice, or to unpardonable ignorance, 
I incline to the latter. We must now break the track, every 
one who announced his intention too late to go was disap- 
pointed, but friends and relatives you may rejoice that you 
are yet at home. To you we turn that you may remind our 
Councillors and Councillor Streiff of the promises publicly 
made to us on our embarking at the Biasca Landing. If 
we had been unable to open our own purses we should have 
starved before this; we believed their promises, but Faith 
and belief do not always bring Salvation. 

On the 26th we embarked on the Steamer and arrived in 
the evening at Cologne. Those who had money as usual 



lS45-] DIARY OF A NEW GLARUS COLONIST. 2Q7 

sought lodgings in the Inns. I and mine slept on the 
benches on the Steamer. Next morning the 27th several 
of us went into the City to see and admire that Splendid 
national work of the Germans the Cathedral. We arrived 
at Nimwegen, Holland, in the evening here our people 
were for the first time approached by hotel runners; 4 to 6 
of those fellows hung like crabs to them, and coaxed them 
along. The simple inexperienced emigrants realized next 
morning how they were deceived, they had been compelled 
to pay 4 to 5 florins for a small family's lodging and food. 
On the 28th we arrived at Rotterdam here we believed our- 
selves to be at the point where according to Councillor 
Strieff we might tie up our purses, but the expense only 
began anew. I joined myself to the leaders and with them 
went to the Hotel City of Frankfort where we were very 
well treated. 

On the morning of the 29^^^ we were brought on a steamer 
which took us to Dordrecht we waited there from noon until 
9 P. M. when we were agaia packed into Canal boats. We 
consumed the time waiting, in looking at the city. Like 
all Holland towns everything gave token of wealth and 
luxury, buildings were all of brick, and streets paved like- 
wise. The night of 29 to 30 was for us a depressing one, 
there was no chance to lie down on the boats, they were 
packed full of people, so that we had to sit all night wedged 
in together, which was in so far well as thus no one could 
fall over. ..,;„;,,'. 

On the 30th we arrived at Amsterdam where we again 
bought food; here we were embarked on two coasting ves- 
sels and in the evening after much delay sailed away. At 
Amsterdam thieves abounded, and several of our people 
had articles stolen. 

The night of the SOth to May 1st was to us a night of 
terror, about midnight a severe storm struck us and madly 
stormed until morning. An Anchor was thrown 100 feet 
from the shore, then a rope was thrown to shore and by 
means of a windlass our vessel was drawn to the land and 
fastened. Only our ship was so fortunate, the other — which 



298 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS. [vol. XV. 

contained mostly Little Valley people was obliged to cast 
Anchor about 100 rods from land; we were able to get re- 
freshments but not so the others. 

So we lay in this condition till Ascension day but on 
neitlier vessel were the people in condition to observe this 
holiday. We saw the inhabitants in Sunday attire but sup- 
posed they were Catholics and were observing some of their 
feast days. The most of us were very Seasick, the strongest 
men were obliged to retire and lie down. We had to re- 
main where we were until the morning of the 2nd when we 
left but with such unfavorable wind that the ships could 
merely tack back and forth, so we could hardly make i league 
in an hour. We had only 5 leagues to go and arrived at Nieu- 
wendiep at 4 P. M. We embarked at once on the ocean ship 
which is a fine well-built three-master containing 88 berths 
in which we this evening lay, merely in our bed clothes; 
on the 3rd we bought straw so we can rest properly, but 
we must do our cooking outdoors on the shore like vaga- 
bonds; on the 4th was Sunday, but it can here not be dis- 
tinguished from week days; people do business as on other 
days. The sailors gave most sign of it, many of them were 
full drunk. 

From the 5th until Whitsuntide, the 11th, every day the 
same weather. We went to the town daily to buy food 
which was dear as is usual in a Seaport, especially one like 
Nieuwendiep which lies where for many leagues not a single 
fruit tree gladdens the eye of man ; nothing but flat mead- 
ows cut up with many canals, where the cattle gnawed the 
grass which is hardly 2 inches high; it is very unfertile, 
for a cutting cold sea wind blows continually. We could 
never really become warm. Nieuwendiep is entirely new; 
45 years ago only one house is said to have been where 
now 11,000 people live; pavements and houses are of brick 
but seldom more than 2 stories high; they are mostly 
stores and shops where any article may be bought. Brandy 1 
Stuber [licts] a glass. Beer the same, but not good. Cheese 
was cheapest, for 4 Stuber [6 cts] a good rich one. Some 
was sold for less, which was mixed with cloves, but not all of 



i845-] DIARY OF A NEW GLARUS COLONIST. 299 

US liked that flavor. Milkmen came twice a day to the ship 
but the milk was as poor as the skimmed article is with us. 
Bread-sellers came also every morning; they had light white 
bread but entirely unsalted, but they salt the butter and 
meat very strong. The butter here is not melted as with us 
but they mix much salt with it and pack it in kegs and thus 
it remains good for years. It costs 8 to 9 Stuber, smoked 
pork 10 Stuber, fresh beef according to amount of bone in 
it 4, 5 and 6 Stuber but very fine meat. My purse did not 
allow me to buy of everything, neither could I go into the 
town much, fori was obliged to supply f of the 200 persons 
on the ship with tin dishes.^ However some of them were 
obliged to wait for theirs until we had been on the ocean 
2 or 3 weeks. So that they felt the need of the tinner very 
much. From home and even on the Biasca landing they 
despised the tinker, but on the voyage they needed me 
worse than I did them. But after all I received but few 
thanks especially from one of the leaders * * * who 
served in all cases the part of the 5th wheel on the wagon. 
When things went wrong he could only curse and howl. 
Should another batch of emigrants leave our land do not 
leave the choice of leaders to M. Streiff. It was he that 
persuaded the committee to appoint such stupid men. Oq 
Whitsun Monday the 12th a few of the men from Diesbach 
came to me and requested me to go to the town and write 
a plain unvarnished letter home, we went into several 
houses but found no convenient place for there is not a 
great hotel in all the town, people drink their beer and 
schnaps in the shops standing; or if one wants to take his 
ease he sits on a bench or tub or whatever else is conven- 
ient, holding the glass in one hand and provender in the 
other. I believe this custom arose from the fact that Hol- 
landers empty their glasses at one swallow and then leave. 
We resolved therefore to let the writing wait until we should 
arrive at Baltimore, so as also to include the account of the 
Ocean Voyage. So we each bought a jug of schnaps and 
returned to our ships, on which we remained. 

' Duerst was a tinsmith. — Ed. 



3CO WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS. [vol. XV. 

At nine o'clock of the morning of the 13th we pushed 
from the shore; an hour was spent in getting us into proper 
position with ropes and windlass; then our ship was taken 
in tow by a steamer which is always ready in the harbor 
for that purpose. At ten Oclock we moved off and bade fare- 
wel] to Europe, perhaps forever for many of us. The 
steamer pulled us out about two leagues when we were 
given over to wind and waves. Seasickness took posses- 
sion of most of us, and there was vomiting all around, 
none of us could remain on our feet even those who es- 
caped the sickness, because of the heavy rolling of the ship 
by the waves. So we sailed with variable winds until 
Wednesday the 21st when there came a storm that drove 
the sweat out of the pores of many of us. Although the dis- 
tance from the ships rail to the surface of the water was at 
least 16 feet and certainly the vessel reached a like number 
of feet under the surface, yet the ship lay now on this, 
now on the other side until the rail dipped into the water. 
The storm ceased on the morning of the 22d; the wind was 
completely still so that the ship made only two leagues 
this day. On the 23d we made better progress and on the 
24th yet better, but the 25th was for us again a day of ter- 
ror; a storm arose in the night, which reigned the whole 
following day with terrible madness. Many a one sobbed 
Oh if I had only remained in my home. From the 24th. 
until the 26th Noon we were not allowed to make any fire, 
neither for the grown or the little could anything warm be 
cooked; those who had bought some food on land, cheese, 
or crackers could get along, but I and many others must 
fast, for the ships provisions seem contrived not entirely 
to kill human beings j^etto make them very sick; much of 
it could not be eaten. The meat is all packed in barrels 
and so much salted that we have to wash it many times 
then parboil it and again throw the water away until it 
was fresher, but even then it was hardly edible. "We re- 
ceive 2i lbs per week to each adult person; those under 12 
years were reckoned two for one. Hard tack we have suf- 
ficient but this is not a human food. The pigs that are kept 



lS45-] DIARY OF A NEW GLARUS COLONIST. 3OI 

on ship refuse to eat it; it is in i lb pieces and of a dark 
brown color inside and out, and so hard as to require a 
hammer to break it up in pieces; it is made solely of bran 
and only a wolfs stomach can digest [it] ; it is calculated to 
kill by slow starvation. The rice is also of the worst quality, 
yet it is edible; each person gets ^ lb weekly. Beans and 
peas are fair. Butter as I have described it. Flour was 
gritty with sand and ^ lb per week was a portion for each. 
Potatoes were very bad, black, bad smelling and rotten, 
hardly fit for pigs. Such as they were we got but spar- 
ingly of them, sometimes none for 3 or 4 days. We often 
wished for some of ours at home. The water is rain water 
several weeks old and leaves a black sediment after stand- 
ing awhile; but we had enough of it and that we were 
thankful for. After recovering from seasickness one gets 
a thirst that can hardly be quenched; one should have 
acid dried fruits in such cases, which is better than all the 
medicine in the world. We greatly wished for our Green 
Sap Sago cheese [Schabzieger] to give a better flavor to 
our rancid watery potatoes and to strengthen our stom- 
achs. One should take along sugar and coffee also, es- 
pecially those who contract their passage with the ship 
food included. I advise — from experience — every person 
or company that may follow us either on their own account 
or under control of any society, to bring their own supply 
of food if they value their health, besides it is i cheaper. 
The agents in Amsterdam, Sambrie & Co., make a profit 
of 29 florins on each passenger, which on the I80 expedited 
by them on this ship makes 4,495 florins. We have such mis- 
erable food that God may pity us. I only wish that those who 
so miserably contracted us might have the power to glance 
into this hospital ; they would blush in terror on their own 
account. I would not wish my worst enemy the condition 
we are in, I trust we will get double reward, for we have 
passed through purgatory. I believe I could defy seasick- 
ness, and actually escaped the vomiting, but an excessive 
dysentery is wasting my flesh and strength. And I am not 
the only one, the strongest constitutions that seemed to 



302 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS. [vol. XV, 

defy all changes of food and water heretofore do not es- 
cape this evil. This condition we ascribe to the use of un- 
accustomed food; had we smoked meat instead of salted we 
would not have suffered so. 

On the 28th we realized the results of our bad lot; we 
sorrowed over two victims, Anna Beglinger, Rudolf Stauf- 
facher's wife of Matt, after suffering many deaths for sev- 
eral days gave up her spirit this afternoon at 3 Oclock. 
She was wrapped and sewed into a large linen sheet; three 
pails full of sand were placed at her feet so as to sink her 
body. We carried her on deck laid her on a plank, we sang 
the first two verses of the 140 hymn. Leader Grob read our 
home funeral service, and so one hour after her death she 
was sunk into the ocean, where she will undergo no decay, 
and her bones need not first be sought and gathered at the 
resurrection. After she had sunk, the remaining verses of 
the hymn were sung ; all of the ships people were on deck, 
and Leader Grob made a touching address, and urged us 
to be patient and united. Fruitless words; even when the 
water rises to and into the lips of the Glarus people they 
will not leave off their hatred, envy, distrust and self-love, 
each follows only his own lead; to be just, there are excep- 
tions, but they are the grains of Gold in the sand on the 
shores. On the same day at 7 P. M. the i year old child of 
Henry Stauffacher of Matt, died, it was bound into a pillow 
and placed over night in a small boat on deck, and next 
morning the 29th committed to the waves with like services 
as before; we sang the 142 hymn. This day we again had 
storm, but our fear was not now so great because we were 
more accustomed to it, and we knew that there was not 
much danger even with great storms on the high sea, unless 
they become cyclones and raise great masses of water out 
of the sea to great heights and carry it along many leagues. 
Should a ship have the misfortune to be in its path it is 
helplessly lost; they are termed waterspouts; we saw none 
such. 

On the morn of the 30th the storm quieted down and we 
had fine weather and good wind all day. 



1 845-] DIARY OF A NEW GLARUS COLONIST. 303 

The 31st was a splendid day with bright sunshine, we 
sailed 50 to 60 leagues in 12 hours. This fore noon at 10 
our ship had sailed just half the distance of our voyage, the 
other half we might make with favorable winds in 10 or 
12 days; but it might take 20 or 30. So we passed the joy- 
ous month of May on the water where no blossoms or 
flowers perfume the air, but where we suffered fear, sor- 
row and pain, with but few joys between. Only a firm con- 
fidence in God, and the hope that over there in America a 
better future smiles upon us inspires and keeps us from 
despair. 

Sunday the first of June is again a day of pleasure if one dare 
enjoy pleasure here. In the brightest sunshine all day the 
ship ran through the water like an arrow, without rolling; 
the most of the people [who] were on deck sang, jested, 
smoked and disputed. Only I and a few others were confined 
to our beds. Yet I do not for an hour wish myself back into 
my valley of sorrow. The voyage of life often leads over 
heights, but the harder the climbing the greater the joy 
after reaching the goal. Everything bears witness to God's 
wisdom. When one has always partaken of the good then 
there is no longer pleasure in its enjoyment. We have 
thus begun June well, and hope to see its end as good, for 
then I trust we will be on the land. The second is like yes- 
terday clear and bright with good winds. I was enough bet- 
ter to be able to work, for the people pressed me much for 
tinware. The third was also pretty fair. We have had it 
quite warm for several days so that we sweat in our close 
berths without covering. We imagined we scented Ameri- 
can air. 

Today the 4th we made less progress, yet some, for we 
had only side winds. This evening we again had an unusual 
incident. The wife of Hilarius Wild of Schwanden who 
was pregnant suffered pain all day, her husband asked if 
possibly they were pains of labor, she said it could hardly 
be as the time of her delivery was not until August, but 
this evening she was delivered of a premature but living 
child. It lived until morning the 5th, when it died and was 



304 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS, [vol. XV. 

consigned to the waves. This day I again had to keep my 
bed, and I lay unwell to the 9tli during which time I could 
neither work nor keep up my diary. Am even now not 
strong enough for anything. Every day unfavorable winds 
so that we have now to sail in this direction, then in the 
opposite. This day the Captain made us a present of a pig 
weighing 50 lbs. It was dressed and divided among all the 
passengers, it made small portions about ^ lb. each, but 
even so little refreshed us; it brought my health back for 
we cooked a good potatoe soup with our portion. Oh how 
we relished this meal! No prince at his grand table could 
be more contented than we were at this moment. At home 
with our usual food' we think nothing of it. So circum- 
stances may change. But everything has its good, in this 
way we learn to value even the little things. The wind re- 
mains unfavorable in the night of 9 to 10th; the ocean was 
quite uneasy, but this did not affect us any more, if we 
only had more and better food, for the people in conse- 
quence of seasickness and dysentery are so depleted, that 
most of them really suffer hunger. 

This morning there happened an unpleasant dispute be- 
tween the leaders, and someof our parish members, who had 
all along distinguished themselves by their selfish lawless 
conduct. I need not name them they are already known. 
They cursed continually at the committee, although that is 
to blame for our wretched condition yet not maliciously or 
willfully so, but because of their inexperience. It is surely 
to be believed that in another year such an undertaking 
would be better organized, and cursing does not mend the 
matter; on the contrary makes it worse by still more em- 
bittering our already embittered life. It is certainly im- 
possible where there are so many different characters and 
tempers, to remove all cause of complaint. Had we pa- 
tience, good sense and mutual confidence things would go 
better. We could in a gentle manner exhort and teach 
each other, and not at the slightest obstacles give forth the 
most shocking oaths and curses, the latter only increases 
the mutual distrust and hate, especially where, like sparks 



1 845'] DIARY OF A NEW GLARUS COLONIST. 305 

in the ashes, some old grudge only waits for a chance to 
break forth into flames, to destroy the bonds of mutual help 
which should hold together such a company as ours. We 
shall need each other's good will and assistance if we are 
to succeed without double hardships and trouble. Love and 
friendship should fill the mind of each new settler and he 
should assist his neighbor gladly. If that condition could 
be had, we could make a paradise of the world, but it is 
with our present temper being made a hell of. 

On the 11th it was fair with but little wind, so we did not 
get ahead at all and that is wearisome. On the 12 we had 
wind enough and too much, causing a heavy storm. In the 
first days of our voyage when the ship was tossing in such 
a way, no one dared to think of cooking, we rather suffered 
intense hunger, now we are accustomed to it no one cares 
and spite of the storm cooking goes on all day. The kettles 
were bound fast to keep them in place. In the night of 12 
to 13 the storm became worse so that trunks that had been 
tied and fastened with ropes were torn from their fasten- 
ings and rolled over and over. We had to grasp hold of 
our berths with all our power to keep ourselves from being 
thrown about. On the 13th again but little wind; it is very 
discouraging to have one day storm and next day nearly 
entire calm, for in neither condition is there the progress 
we so much wish. On the 14th it is again better. This day 
the ship flew so that no steamship could have exceeded our 
speed. We saw a ship that was coming from America but 
soon lost sight of it, on the whole voyage we saw many 
ships but none came so close as to enable us to speak with 
them even with the trumpet which Captains of ships use. 
On the 15th did not run so well; made fair progress in the 
morning but no headway at all after noon. We saw a fine 
fish swimming around the ship, a sailor tied a piece of pork 
on a line and coaxed it and the mate stood with a spear 
ready to strike, as it came near he threw with steady hand 
and the points went into the middle of the fish's body; it 
was a master throw. It was drawn up on deck; it was a 

beautiful animal weighing about 14 lbs; its green and yellow 
21 



306 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS. [vol. XV. 

scales shone like purest gold. The Captain may refresh 
himself with it. Morning of 16 a complete calm, we did 
not move from the spot the whole day and longed for wind 
but in vain. 

On the 17th had some wind, and on the 18th still better. 
We believe and hope to see land if the wind remains so fa- 
vorable until next morning. We have so much more cause 
to long for the desired shore because this day our principal 
food, the potatoes, were all consumed, and we fear we 
shall suffer hunger if fate keeps us much longer on the 
Sea. For one can hardly support life with the portions of 
other food given us. We could have had potatoes for a 
much longer time if they had been sound at first. They 
rotted in the hold and a terrible stench arises from them; 
it is as if there was a rotting manure heap and yet so driven 
by want were we that we ventured at the disgusting work 
of sorting and picking out the few sound ones from the 
rotten mass. We had now to make use of the horse food 
otherwise known as hard tack (Zweiback) [twice-baked] 
already described, and I look on with a sad smile to see 
human beings for hours whetting their teeth in endeavor 
to bite and chew it; those who possessed good teeth got 
along fairly but those not so fortunate would get hungrier 
as they tried to chew it. It filled the stomach but con- 
tained little nutriment. 19th the hope to see land this 
morning was not fulfilled although we sailed well all night. 
It is now again nearly complete calm. A few days since we 
made an unpleasant discovery which very much increased 
our longing to get on land. I hardly dare to write it; body 
lice in great number have shown themselves on some of 
the less cleanly, and it is feared that they will so spread 
as to infest all of the passengers unless all possible pre- 
ventive means are taken. It would be anything but a pleas- 
ant companionship. For this reason I at once had my long 
hair cut, for as soon as I heard of the presence of these un- 
clean guests I imagined I was infested, but to my joy the 
fear was groundless. The one who bred this unwelcome 
population was from the proud town of Ennenda, his name 



1 845-] DIARY OF A NEW GLARUS COLONIST. 307 

is * * * It is well that it was none of our Valley people 
or we would have great censure. 

This evening the little son Rudolf of Henry Hoesli of 
Diessbach died; he declined a long time and suffered from 
convulsions. It was sad to see him when sick and not be 
able to give him any relief. He was on the morning of the 
20th with the customary services committed to the waves; 
we sang the 138 Hymn. Myself and every feeling person 
can imagine how painful it must be for parents who have 
loved a child to commit it to the watery elements. We that 
were born and brought up on the land are unused to such 
disposition. We think it more comforting to intrust our 
dead to mother earth on firm land, but when one considers 
that the water as well as the land is a creation of God and 
that finally on the day of judgement the reward follows 
the deeds, then it can make no difference when, where, or 
how, we must die. If we have only lived so as to be ready, 
it is well. The goodness of God made itself evident in the 
case of Barbara, the mother of the dead child ; her husband 
confined to his bed by sickness could give her no assist- 
ance in the care of the child. Other friends were weak and 
seasick and she alone had to watch and care for the dying 
one, many a time when no one else could venture on deck 
in the fierce storm, in greatest danger of being thrown 
down and washed overboai'd, she went to cook some warm 
food for her beloved child. This day we again got along 
-swiftly, the wind blew strong and steady from the rear, 
and I just have heard the report that the Captain has said 
that even with moderately favorable wind we would see 
land tomorrow afternoon. How glad we would be if it prove 
true. 

On the 21st our hope is again cheated. No America in 
sight yet. I have determined to believe no more reports; 
what the eyes see the heart believes. I shall trust only my 
own eyes. This afternoon it rained harder than I ever saw 
it before; it ran in streams for an hour, and it was sultry 
to suffocation, all of the passengers below crowded for air 
to the openings. It is remarkable to notice for us, that 



308 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS. [vol. XV. 

the days are fully three hours shorter than at home. In 
the longest days in Glarus it is lighter at 2 A. M. than 
here at 4 A. M. At 8 in the evening it is already night, and 
that impresses even an uneducated person that there is not 
such a great difference between the longest and shortest 
days as in Switzerland. 

On the 22nd again a weary Sunday. The people at home 
are no doubt walking through fields and meadows, stretch- 
ing the potato tops to mark their growth. In our thoughts 
we wish ourselves there for a few hours. Weak winds in the 
morning, stronger in the afternoon, still no land in sight. 
On the 23rd a heavy storm tossed us around considerably. 
On the 24th a ship coming from America came at a signal 
from our Captain so near that they could speak with trum- 
pets with each other. I could not understand English but 
gathered that the ship was bound for France. Many peo- 
ple were on board. Afternoon another met and passed us. 
The splendid wind chased our ship through the waves like 
the best steamer, let us see if there is nothing new in sight 
by morning. 25th and 26th both days nearly total calm, so 
near to land and not be able to move from the spot is nearly 
unendurable. 

The 27th the most joyful day of the whole ocean voyage;, 
about 10 A. M. a coasting vessel came up and they asked 
our Captain if we were in want of provisions. I presume 
the Captain answered he was not for the boat left us again. 
About 11 o'clock the joyful cry Land! was heard. All who 
were not already on deck streamed up, myself among the 
latter, and really we saw what resembled a row of great 
trees. The American flag was at once hoisted on the fore- 
mast ; every body expressed their gladness and thanked God, 
and I believe most sincerely from their hearts, for whoever 
has lived through 46 days of such misery, even the most hard- 
ened is glad to be redeemed. We waited with impatience until 
the expected pilot should come who was to guide our ship 
to the coast. At last we saw a coast vessel approach us 
with lightning speed and at 6 P. M. the man boarded our 
ship; the boat that brought him turned and with all speed 



l845-] DIARY OF A NEW GLARUS COLONIST. 309 

departed leaving us way behind in a short time. No one 
who has not had our experience can imagine what enthu- 
siasm reigned among our people; the faces were all changed, 
and one could read joy and gladness in them all. At once 
all our privations and troubles seemed forgotten. 

On the 28th, this morning, my eagerness drove me on deck 
at half past three, it was quite dark so that only the light 
houses on both sides were visible which guide the voyagers 
safely along the dangerous coast. The first mate in reply 
to my question when we would arrive at Baltimore said if 
the wind holds well we would be there this evening. He 
said he had never sailed so swift during the whole voy- 
age as now, and indeed, it is astonishing what speed the 
wind awakens when it comes from the right quarter; but 
one can imagine when 16 sails great and small are plump 
full, that it makes power that would tear down great cliffs. 
This morning we asked to be allowed to gather and keep 
the cooked, uneaten food. The answer was that first we 
were to throw overboard our bedding straw, pull down the 
berths that had been fastened, and cleanse the ship. This 
order made motion; every one who had hands laid on with 
hatchet and hammer and in two hours all of the 83 berths 
were laid aside; now we wanted the promised food; there 
was considerable commotion when the mate declared that 
as we wanted to draw rations before usual time each must 
sign a receipt therefor. He had strict orders to issue food 
only once a week on Tuesdays, and as we were now only in 
the middle of the week since the last ration day, he could 
only issue for a half week ; well, we had to be satisfied with 
that much. In the afternoon the wind slackened, and the 
evening brought even head wind, so that the anchors had 
to be thrown. We remained the whole night in this con- 
dition with no straw or berths to lie in, so some slept on 
their trunks and others on the floors. 

On the 29th morning the anchors were hoisted again, and 
we sailed ahead with light winds until 5 P. M. when the 
anchors were again thrown as a heavy shower broke upon 
us, but had to remain so only an hour as the shower passed 



310 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS. [vol. XV. 

away, and we sailed with incredible speed towards the har- 
bor, so that when darkness came we were as close to land as 
we could sail. The same evening the port physician came 
on board, and the Captain returned with him on shore. I 
would like to describe the gladness which ruled among us, 
but I believe even the most learned could not compel his 
pen to describe it, let alone an unlearned person as I am. 
We lay this night as on the previous one on our baggage, 
and on the floors, on the ship. Before we retired however 
some of our best singers sang several songs splendidly, so 
that even the sailors crowded around and applauded. The 
sons of Fr. Legler, Sr. sang especially well, and they also 
were of the most helpful of our company during our voy- 
age. 

On the morning of the 30th everyone put on their best 
clothes; the leaders intended to call on August Diesel- 
horst to whom we were consigned by the scoundrelly ship- 
pers in Amsterdam, but we had a lack of confidence in the 
ability of the leaders, justified by our experience, so that 
we decided to elect a committee of three to join the leaders 
& to take part in their work. I was one of those so selected. 
We went together to said agent, but we accomplished noth- 
ing, he charged us eight dollars per head to St. Louis. We 
ascertained that he had no authority to contract passage 
farther than Pittsburgh and there we would again have to 
make a new contract; rather than run the risk of losing a 
portion of our passage money by charges from other ship- 
pers, we declined to further deal with this man. We made 
inquiries for the firm which was to pay us the reserve fund 
promised us at Amsterdam by Councillor Jenny. We found 
the firm but they knew nothing of any fund to be paid us, 
which ignorance we invariably find, when anything for our 
advantage is sought. This afternoon we received notice to 
remove our baggage from the ship at once or it would be 
thrown overboard. We went at it head over heels, and 
loaded it and carried it on carts to our lodgings. I then 
wished I had not so much baggage, as it was a very great 
trouble. I lodged with a German landlord named Konrad 



l845-] DIARY OF A NEW GLARUS COLONIST. 3II 

Buschky a good friendly man, for Breakfast we had coffee, 
bread, butter and sausage. Dinner — soup, meat and vege- 
tables. Supper like breakfast; our beds were bad, on the 
upper floor cloths had been laid on which most laid, others 
sat up the whole night in the guest room. We paid 12^ cents 
a meal, and for sleeping 3 cts. a person counting two chil- 
dren as one person. An American dollar has 100 cents, a 
five-franc piece 94 cents. 

June is now ended. When I closed my diary for May I 
thought that by this time we would be on the land which 
has been bought for us, but of course it was a vain hope. 
On the 1st of July all of the men of our company went on 
a hill near the city where we discussed our further plans, 
especially as to which of the three shippers who desired 
to ship us we should entrust ourselves. Leader Grob 
showed their references and it was resolved that the com- 
mittee last formed, of which I was one, should conclude 
a contract with a Jew Abraham Cuyk. Everything was ar- 
ranged to save money; we paid for each person 20 francs, 
children from 4 to 12 two for one, and under 4 free. It is 
understood that we provide our own food. Our baggage 
was weighed and we had to pay ^1.00 per hundred for all 
over 100 lbs. to each person, these outlays exhausted our 
treasury. This day we saw in Baltimore a ceremony per- 
formed such as none of us had ever seen. The great gen- 
eral and late president Jackson who had performed great 
deeds for the liberty of America had died, and these were 
his funeral obsequies, seven thousand horsemen in double 
ranks, the first column in black pants and vests and white 
jackets trimmed with black ribbons and crape rode on 
splendid white horses, the officers at the front. Column 
after column rode, each with like colored horses and cloth- 
ing, and splendid processions followed each other the whole 
day. The principal doings I did not see, but read about 
them in the newspapers, but my pocket diary would not 
have room for the description. Honor to the great man 
who like Cincinnatus of old Roman times was several times 
called from the plow to head the armies of the nation and 



312 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS. [vol. XV. 

its councils, and always acquitted himself well as states- 
man or soldier. This evening we had some business as 
already noted. "V^^e had received a present of 18 florins 
from Mr. Blumer and 100 florins from Councillor Peter 
Jenoy with instructions to aid the most needy when neces- 
sary. We had two families who were bare of all money, 
and therefore could travel no farther than Baltimore, they 
were Andr. Steusey of Reiden, and Andr. Kundert of Ruty, 
each had a wife and child, one of them had an offer of em- 
ployment. So the leaders after consultation agreed to give 
the two men 15 francs which they received and divided. 

The night of 1st July to 2nd will never be forgotten by 
me. I was suddenly attacked with sickness coupled with 
terrible pains in my bowels so that I thought I should die. 
I was easier in the morning but utterly weak. The 3d 
morning we bade farewell to those left behind and went to 
the railroad a league from the city; this day was the glad- 
dest and best of the whole voyage until now. The first 
time in our lives riding on a railroad we never tired of see- 
ing the sights. We rode with the speed of the wind through 
splendid country and shaded valleys — the eyes rejoiced in 
the many pleasant changes; the rich grain fields, the fine 
orchards, the tasty dwellings proclaimed to us American 
comfort and wealth and so controlled by these sensations 
we came in the evening to the Susquehanna river. There 
we got out of the cars and passed over a bridge two miles 
in length into the town of Columbia, which lay on the op- 
posite shore. We went to the Golden Eagle tavern where 
we had supper at 14 cents per person. After supper until 
late at night we had to perform the hard labor of carrying 
our baggage from the railroad to the Canal boats which 
were to bring us to Pittsburgh. We slept in the boats the 
same night, but how, — not much better than if we were a 
flock of sheep. One may imagine'how 30 to 35 human be- 
ings were pressed like herrings into a space 12 by 7 feet, 
many had no room even to sit and were obliged to stand 
all night as if they were sentenced to the stocks. 

On the 3d July we left Columbia. Each of our boats was 



l845-] DIARY OF A NEW GLARUS COLONIST. 



JM 



drawn by one horse, which at stated times was relieved by 
another which rode along in the boat; there was no stop 
except at the locks, where the boats were raised higher, 
usually a few houses stood at each lock where we were 
able to purchase food, the men usually ran out at the stops 
and hurried to get food in time. The people, mostly Ger- 
mans, took advantage of our hurry and prices were raised 
on us in proportion to our eagerness, it seems they are in- 
fected with avarice and deceit. The farmers are said to be 
hospitable and honest. 

So came we Sunday morning the 6th of July at 9 A, M. 
to Hollidaysburg. I cannot name all the towns and villages 
we passed. At this place we lay the whole day because 
on Sundays all business rests. We cooked in the open air 
on fireplaces hastily erected, and prepared sufficient food 
to last us next day, for the Canal stops here and our boats 
with all therein are loaded on railroad wagons,^ but this is 
easy — the track runs into the water, the cars are let down, 
and the boats floated on them and the load drawn up the 
incline by means of a wire rope attached to a windlass 
worked by four horses. This morning at 7 the train of 
wagons started, it is astounding what human hands can do. 
Sometimes the train was drawn up steep inclines by a wire 
rope and steam engine, which pulls up on one side of the 
mountain and lets down on the other; at the levels, some- 
times locomotives, at others horses, pulled the train and 
sometimes down easy inclines neither was used. We went 
fast enough without. Sometimes we passed through tun- 
nels under mountains; it is an astonishingly costly and bold 

^ This mountain-climbing road was a division of what afterwards became 
the Pennsylvania Railway system. The distance between Hollidaysburg 
and Johnstown was 37 miles, and the road attained in one place an eleva- 
tion of 2,491 feet above sea level. It was completed March 18, 1834. See 
Flint's Bailroads of the U. S. (Phila., 1868), pp. 87, 88. Flint says: 
" There were two very long incline planes, at the top of each of which two 
stationary engines were placed, and were worked with the usual endless 
rope. Four cars were drawn up and four were let down at the same time. 
A safety-car attended each trip, and could stop all the cars, in case of ac- 
cident to the rope." — Ed. 



314 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS. [vol. XV. 

enterpinse. This evening brought us to Johnstown where 
our boats were again let into the water of the Canal. We 
started in the night, everything went well until about 2 
o'clock A. M. we got stuck in the shore and had to remain 
until morning when with our help we again got afloat. 

The 8th, nothing of interest happened; we were kept 
busy admiring the gigantic work of man over which we 
were passing — tunnels through solid rock which took 5 
minutes to pass, lined partly with natural rock, partly with 
hewn stone, alternated with bridges over great streams — 
all works of which Europe has no idea. Sometimes the route 
is through lovely wooded valleys, again over smiling regions 
where log houses alternate with splendid dwellings, in front 
of which we frequently see ladies in bonnets and fine clothes, 
milking cows ; but so far as I could observe that is about 
all the work they do, for we saw even in the log houses 
such persons sitting in rocking chairs clad in bonnet and 
shawl with folded arms like grand ladies. 

On the 9th we had a revolt with the crew. Some of our 
people had stepped off to buy food, and as the boats did not 
stop for such purposes they naturally fell behind so as to 
cause them more than two miles quick marching to catch 
up. When they came they requested that the boat be 
hauled near shore so they could jump aboard; the boat- 
men refused; we insisted with a great deal of noise and I 
was about to cut the draw rope with a hatchet when the 
crew concluded to grant the request; afterward we were 
shown more consideration. This evening we arrived at. 
Pittsburgh; as we floated into the city our singers sang 
several Swiss songs which attracted hundreds of people to 
the border of the canal and to the windows of the adjoin- 
ing houses. 

On the 10th, forenoon, we viewed the city. It is laid out 
on a grand scale — broad streets with walks on each side, 
splendid churches of which the English Catholic is the finest. 
It is a grand temple built of hewn stone, with a flat roof 
surrounded by a gallery and a great copper dome in the 
middle; it is situated on a height and overlooks the whole 



l845-] DIARY OF A NEW GLARUS COLONIST. 315 

city. There are numerous other fine churches, especially 
noticed one built in gothic style. We noticed the ruins left 
by the terrible fire which devastated the city that spring, 
and which in 6 hours had destroyed 1200 houses besides 
some churches and a fine bridge. They are rebuilding 
however with the usual American speed and I believe that 
at the end of this year there will remain but few traces of 
the fire. Most splendid buildings have Phoenix-like arisen 
from the ashes. 

I found Mr. Jost Ruch from Mitlodi [in Glarus], an old 
friend ; he is a milkman, he brought me and wife and another 
friend Barbara Blesi ; he treated us to good wine in a hotel 
and kindly invited us to go with him to his house a mile from 
the city. After much search we finally found the Grob Bros, 
and required them to give an account of our regular and extra 
expenses so far. They made a claim on our Company for 
32 florins due them, we demanded at first and wanted vouch- 
ers for this claim which they could not furnish, but after 
much talk the amount not being for any one individual to 
pay but by the Company, it was finally allowed and paid. 
After this was settled we discussed as to how the remain- 
ing 85 florins were to be disposed of; the direction of the 
giver was that it should be expended for the benefit of the 
most needy. I with others were for the carrying out of 
these directions, but that was the hardest task of the whole 
voyage to so expend it. To be sure there were several fami- 
lies entirely destitute of money, and in consequence had to 
remain in Pittsburgh; but among those were such as had 
lived better during the whole voyage than the others, who 
paid for sleeping in soft beds while others more provident 
were satisfied to lie on hard berths. It was finally decided 
to divide it equally among all, which gave each person 
37i kreuzer [18f cents]. I and family and a number of 
others went to Mr. Ruch's place and were entertained with 
most generous hospitality with the best in the land. At dusk 
we returned to the River and the Steamboat where we had 
already taken lodgings, although [we had] not yet contracted 
for passage. Had just got on board when the wife of J. C 



3l6 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS. [vol. XV. 

Legler was taken with pains of labor and in half an hour 
she was safely delivered in greatest quietness of a boy. 
Mother and child were well, although they lay in a berth 
near the boilers where the heat was smothering. These 
steamers are different from the European. The freight is 
packed in the lower hold, the Engine and Boilers are in 
the second floor as well as the kitchen and the cheapest 
class of passengers. And it is unbearably hot, the boilers 
are forward, the engine is simple and merely drives one 
propelling wheel in the rear of the boat. The third floor 
is the Cabin extending nearly the whole length of the boat, 
on both sides of which are the state rooms; in the center is 
the Saloon furnished with greatest American splendor — the 
floors covered with finest carpets, chairs, pictures and mir- 
rors in the latest fashion; from the ceilings hang ground 
glass globes in which lights burn in the night. Great 
pitchers filled with ice water on the tables: in short all of 
the conveniences of a grand house ; three times a day meals 
are served in best style such as we in Switzerland only 
serve on great occasions. Refreshments of all kinds can 
be had between meals. On the up'per deck is a little room 
with windows for the steersman. The cabin passage is bet- 
ter, but the other worse than in Europe; there both classes 
are on the same deck, but here the one who has money 
walks over the head of the one who has none. 

On the 11th, morning I again visited Mr, Ruch accom- 
panied by Pr. Legler, Jr. to get my family which had re- 
mained there. We had an American breakfast and then all 
returned and embarked on the steamer or rather in the pur- 
gatory. But before writing further I must describe Mr. 
Ruch. In the year 1817, driven by poverty from his birth- 
place Mitlodi he served as servant nine years until he 
had saved some money, then he bought land and he now 
owns 1300,000 of property and a homestead on an elevation 
surrounded by fine gardens that would be the envy of many 
a German nobleman. Inside one would hardly imagine him- 
self in the abode of a farmer, but in that of a grand capi- 
talist; from the threshold to the roof the floors and stairs 



1 845-] DIARY OF A NEW GLARUS COLONIST. 317 

are covered with costly carpets ; everything one sees bears 
witness of wealth, yet the owner of all this is not too proud 
to haul and deliver to his customers their daily supply of 
milk. He had two houses burned in the great fire in the 
city — several years ago he sent for his old mother in Swit- 
zerland and she now lives with them in plenty, enjoying 
aside from her old age fair health. Should this writing 
ever reach my dear home, he sends greetings to all old 
friends and relations. He came to us on the boat before 
we left and strongly urged us that we do not settle on land 
until we should have some money to work with; for unless 
we had we should, spite of the greatest industry, surely per- 
ish, I could have had three chances to work at my trade 
in Pittsburgh for §1.25 per day to begin with; and after- 
wards more, but I declined, for if it be possible I will have 
some land, for a mechanic cannot rise as high as a farmer, 
although he may also make his fortune. Food is cheap in 
Pittsburgh. Hogs' heads could not be seen laying in the 
streets as some of us had been told at home, but we could 
buy them smoked in the shops for 4 cents a pound. Mut- 
ton same price, beef 6 cents, a glass of schnapps 4 cents, 
hams smoked 8 to 10 cents the larger the cheaper. 

This day we made a contract with our Captain to carry 
us to St. Louis at the rate of 2 dollars for each person over 
14 years, 8 to 14 counted two for one, under 8 free, with 100 
pounds baggage free for each full passenger. We laid in 
provisions for a couple of days and towards evening left 
the city. We steamed pretty fast until 10 P. M. when the 
boat halted until morning. 

On the 12th — Again steamed along; in the forenoon our 
boat ran into another, we supposed from the crash every- 
thing was in pieces; we found out it was done intentionally 
because of rivalry. This does not occur seldom, that they 
greet each other by destroying each other. Luckily our 
boat remained the victor this time, although damaged some. 
It is unpardonable that the crew should perform such dan- 
gerous feats and risk the lives of 250 people on this boat. 
It is said to be prohibited by a penalty of $500 but they 



3l8 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS. [vol. XV. 

care nothing for that. We again steamed along fairly un- 
til evening; when in the middle of the stream we saw on a 
sand bar two boats laden with coal which they offered for 
sale to passing boats. Our boat sailed towards them to 
get fuel but owing perhaps to the inexperience of our 
steersman we got stuck in the bottom. We thought we 
could get off again this evening but as usual were con- 
demned to delay. Other boats came along to assist us, our 
baggage and much other freight was put on flatboats. The 
most of the men including passengers were required to get 
on the bank aud push with all their might against the ves- 
sel; but all in vain, it moved not from the spot. I and some 
others including some women and children were on one of 
the flatboats and without notice were carried to the shore 
and there left nearly naked without food to eat. This even- 
ing I count not one of the pleasant ones of the trip; I had 
laid my two children to sleep near a stairway on the boat 
out of the way of people, and my wife and I were on the 
shore — imagine our anxiety. I could not get to them and 
none of our friends had seen them. My boy got up in the 
dark and fell into the hold. The Captain carried him up 
again unhurt. When I returned to the boat and found that 
this had happened, I made some noise. Those who had 
been put on the coal barges had to remain there until mid- 
night until they were taken off, and then while being 
brought to the shore their boat upset and some of the men 
were nearly drowned before they were helped out of the 
water. Who would have imagined such things at home. We 
imagined golden mountains with air castles built upon 
them. The greater number of the passengers came on 
shore and we made fires and cooked outdoors, and slept 
this second night under God's free heaven. We were able 
to buy some food in a neighboring farm house but at extor- 
tionate prices; pint of milk 4 cents. 

On the 14th forenoon, we came again on the boat, which had 
during the night been moved about a gunshot distance, with 
greatest exertions of men and steampower, so that it had 
water to float in ; we then floated down the Ohio. Our bag- 



lS45-] DIARY OF A NEW GLARUS COLONIST. 319 

gage was in a flatboat; after sailing a few hours they again 
desired to land, but as they always turn the bow up stream 
when a halt is made they in this instance had not calcu- 
lated the distance properly required to make the turn; the 
result was, the propelling wheel struck the shore and broke. 
After repairs lasting until evening we proceeded and ar- 
rived at Wheeling, here a halt of a few hours was again 
made. This citj'- was founded by Germans but the language 
is lost; one seldom finds a German-speaking person; in the 
night we again started. 

15th This day the Captain made inquiries for me on the 
boat. I found him on the deck busy with a day book; he sat 
down by me with an interpreter and put a hundred ques- 
tions to me. Why had we come to this country? How 
large was our country ? How formed, what were its products, 
what wages? How was the climate? What our religion, 
government, laws etc. During the whole conversation he 
expressed a pitying astonishment. No wonder, said he, that 
so many thousand human beings come to this country. He 
said further, a day laborer can earn so much here in a month 
that he can buy a piece of land larger than many a hus- 
bandman has with us. I also put several questions to him, 
principally referring to our company. He said he had 
heard our people had but little money left, but as our land 
had already been bought for us we had not that to pro- 
vide for, so that there was no risk of our starving ; to be 
sure our beginnings would be hard, and he deemed it better 
that we stay in St. Louis and get work of which there was 
plenty, then in the next spring go on our land with more 
means and experience. And he strongly endorsed what 
we had often before heard, that 20 acres was little better 
than nothing, that it would not pay the labor to build a 
house and barn on such a small tract. And he strongly 
urged upon me the unwisdom of going upon land with such 
a trade as I had, which he counted one of the best in Amer- 
ica; and with which I could earn $2.00 per day in St. Louis. 
That with my slight body and strength I would be too weak 
to clear the wilderness. That I should work for wages a 



320 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS. [vol. XV. 

few years, then if I wanted land I would have means to 
buy some near some town ; it need only be large enough to 
provide for the necessities of life from its products. I 
could still work at my trade and sell its product in the 
town or city. In this way I might in a few years become 
a man of means. I replied that the land had already been 
bought for me, the money laid out. He replied that it was 
not even worth while to talk about 20 acres of Government 
land; and becoming somewhat excited said, if you dont want 
to follow my well meant counsel, you may go into the wil- 
derness and work the hide from your back, if you prefer 
that to the other way, by which you may live like a lord. 

16th During yesterday's conversation the Captain told 
me that we were all to land today, that I should so inform 
the passengers so that he might count them, and this 
took place today. We paid him one dollar per person and 
he gave each a ticket to Cincinnati; today we arrived at 
Portsmouth and halted but 20 minutes, so we saw nothing 
of the town except some houses from the river. Many of 
them were like palaces. We in haste bought some food 
and ran on board again for no one desired to get left. 

17th This morning at two o'clock we arrived at Cincin- 
nati. We had thought that the same boat that brought us 
from Pittsburgh would take us to St. Louis. We had made 
the contract with the Captain to the latter place but it was 
announced that our boat went no farther and our contract 
was cancelled. So we sought to get passage on another 
vessel. I went on one, and found the mate who spoke very 
good German, and made a contract ^ with him for St. Louis 
which was a little more to our advantage than that made 

1 The following copy of the contract with the captain is given on a fly- 
leaf of the diary. — Ed. 

CONTRACT WITH EIVEE CAPTAIN. 

The Captain of the Cincinnati Steamboat undertakes the Swiss Company nnder the 
following conditions : 

Persons over 14 years $2.00 Children under 14 to 8 years reckoned 2 for one person, 
and under 8 years free. 

In consideration therefor the Captain binds himself to bring us as speedily as possi- 
ble to St. Louis, and we are also assured a place for cooking and sleeping also wood 
and light; each person has 100 lbs baggage free, the overweight must be paid at30cts 



1 845-] DIARY OF A NEW GLARUS COLONIST. 321 

in Pittsburgh. Each person over 14 pays a dollar, from 11 
to 14 two for one, and less than 11 free. 100 pounds bag- 
gage free, and over that 20 cents per cwt. We had better 
accommodations, for the jjeople were divided on three boats, 
but the greater part are on ours; there were 32 berths in 
tiers of four. This is for us much more convenient than 
on the last, where we had to lay on the decks so that our 
bedding was often wet through from rain and river water. 
Today we had an unexpected visit from Thomas Streiff of 
Schwanden ; he works here in a factory as engraver, he said 
things were well with him, that he had no desire to return 
home, but at first he had had fearful hard times, that he 
had long been sick, his wife died; it must be a great grief 
to lose one's beloved ones in a strange land. Hilarius Wild 
and wife and little boy remained here, and they will prob- 
ably live with Streiff in one house. Some of our people 
had dropped off at all of the principal places we touched, 
Baltimore, Columbia, Pittsburgh and Wheeling and re- 
mained ; and should we not find .Judge Duerst on our arrival 
at St. Louis we shall be compelled to remain there, for 
once there unless we find directions we will not know in 
what direction to go, like a flock without a herdsman. 

The 18th Today I looked around some in the City ; it is 
one of the finest and largest in the United States ; the streets 
are paved and broad with walks on each side over which 
cloths are stretched ; they cross each other at right angles. 
The houses are all built of brick & furnished with extrav- 
agant splendor. 1 found none in which anything could not 
be bought; the shops are termed stores, and are filled with 
goods of such quantity and splendor as to excel even the 

per cwt. The one-half of passage money will be paid in Pittsburgh, the 2nd half in St. 

Louis after proper fulfillment of the contract. This contract shall be drawn in writing 

and each party receives copy thereof. 

[Not signed.] 

Cincinnati, July 17/45. 
The undersigned Captain of the boat Wiag and Wing has concluded a firm contract 
■with divers families for St. Louis. Prices as follows Each parson pays one dollar 
Children from 11 to 14 half, all under 11 free, each person has 100 lbs baggage free, chil- 
dren who pay, 50 lbs. the overweight 20 cts per cwt. the passage must be paid by the 

passengers when we arrive 25 miles from St. Louis. 

James Buglee, Capt. 

22 



322 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS. [vol. XV. 

large cities of Europe. Cincinnati, the principal city of 
Ohio, is nearly in the middle of the Union, is growing with 
incredible rapidity; and it is believed as she lies in the cen- 
ter she may in a few years excel Washington and become 
the Capital of the Union. There are 72,000 inhabitants. 

Meat of all kinds is very cheap here, for 50 cents one can 
get a fair small dressed sheep, smoked hams 6 and 8 cts a 
lb. and it is said that each winter over 100,000 hogs are 
slaughtered — the heads and insides are all thrown away. 
A half gallon of grain brandy costs only 16 cents; a cent is 
the same as a Zurich Schilling, but wine is dear because it 
all comes from Europe — of course we did not indulge in 
any. The beer is sweet and 3 cents a glass, but I did not 
like it. 

On the 19th. Today our boat the Wing and Wing left 
about 11 A. M. The steersman said it went very fast and 
that it would catch up to those who had left the day be- 
fore. This morning our company was again increased by 
a new member. Rudolf Staulfacher's wife gave birth to 
a boy, so quietly that persons quite close by neither heard 
or saw anything of the event, until the child was in the 
world. A human being can exert great control when she 
must and will ; this is the third birth on our voyage and in 
all cases the event was quiet, whereas at home there would 
have been a powerful noise. The cheapness of food yester- 
day had tempted many to buy a large supply of fresh meat, 
but today the greater portion had to be thrown into the 
river because of the intense heat causing decomposition 
and a horrid stench. For the last two nights we have had 
that plague of America, the Mosquitoes. Many of our peo- 
ple are so full of scratches and swelling as to be nearly 
unrecognizable. Others have swollen hands and feet from 
the same cause. They are small long legged flies which 
only come at night. This evening we came to the town of 
Madison, in Indiana. We could not get into it because halt 
was only made to take some freight on board. The pros- 
pect towards the river shows splendor and wealth like all 
American cities. 



1 845-] DIARY OF A NEW GLARUS COLONIST. 323 

The 20th. This morning just before dawn we arrived at 
Liouisville, a blooming city in Kentucky, four of us went 
into the city and in order to save space in my diary will re- 
mark that what I have said about other American cities 
applies here. From this place down for two miles, the 
Ohio is not navigable, therefore a canal was built which 
carries the largest steamers, and' this 12 mile Canal has 
cost more money than all the highways in Glarus Land; 
its bed throughout is blasted in the solid rock and on this 
rock there are walls on each side 8 to 10 feet high, on top 
of that there is a cemented embankment over 50 feet wide. 
A splendid bridge of three arches built of hewn stone 
crosses it, and near its outlet into the Ohio are three locks 
close together so that the largest vessel can be raised or 
lowered 30 feet; just now the water is very low in the canal 
and our men, women and children had to travel the whole 
distance on shore to the outlet; but we had plenty of time 
as it took the boat two hours to make the distance, for one 
of the wheels was broken on the rocks and it had to be 
pulled most of the way. 

The 21st. We had again the luck to run aground today, 
but got off in three hours and steamed bravely farther. 

The 22nd. Today about 10 A. M. we steamed into the Mis- 
sissippi, the water is very muddy and full of drift wood, 
just like the forest torrents after a heavy rain. If I could 
wish all the wood I see stranded on the sand bars, into the 
parish of Diessbach, they would have no need for many years 
to distribute their Beech parcels. Likewise if I could dis- 
tribute to our poor at home all of the food that is thrown 
away on the steamers, we would need no poorhouse or poor 
act, for no food is served the second time — all that is not 
eaten the first time is thrown away, not only on the vessels 
but also in hotels and dwellings. A proof that there is not 
only enough, but the greatest overflow in this country. To- 
day the first mate, who speaks German well, requested me 
to give him a full list of our people. I made him a table 
according to families and age, and who was to pay full or 
half fare or were free. 



324 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS. [vol. XV^ 

The 23rd. The mate called me and I went with him to 
collect the fares; this done I asked him for a receipt; he 
said he could give me one as soon as the baggage was 
weighed and payment made for extra weight. Afternoon 
it was weighed and we had in all about 1800 lbs extra. We 
arrived this evening at St. Louis, and many Glarus people 
who lived there greeted us kindly, C. Wild, Henry Hosly,. 
Fr. Blesi, Paulus Kundert; Fr. Schesser most interested me. 

On the 24th. This morning there were lively times on 
the vessel, everything was packed into trunks and boxes> 
and we put on our best clothes and I went with my family 
to visit C. Wild, but as we came into his house we found 
that his wife was sick unto death and he could therefore- 
in no way entertain us, so full of grief was he. He owns 
a new house in a fine part of the city and has a fine foun- 
tain with good water. We returned to the city and met 
H. Duerst with our baggage. I was glad to meet him and we 
rented a room wherein three families of us lived, cooked 
and slept. We paid $2.00 for a month in advance, the same 
If we only occupied it 8 days. The other families are scat- 
tered here and there in groups of two and three. 

On the 25th we all met together and held counsel as to 
our future movements, as we had not here found the ex- 
perts sent to select our lands. There was however a let- 
ter from Messrs. H. & W. Blumer [of Allentown, Pa,], which 
informed us that the two experts, in Company with a Mr. 
Frey who had been added by Blumer, were in Peru, Illi- 
nois. So our company decided to send two men there and 
these two were Paulus Grob and myself. We went im- 
mediately to the river inquired after a steamer bound for 
that region. We found one which however only went as 
far as Peoria, 70 miles this side of Peru, as owing to the 
low water none could go farther. We make a contract to 
take us both to Peoria for $3.00; and in case we returned 
and got passage for all of our people, that amount was to 
be deducted from the passage money. We informed our 
company and they were satisfied with the bargain. We 
reckoned that both of us would need 16 5-franc pieces for 



l845-] DIARY OF A NEW GLARUS COLONIST. 325 

fare and expenses. The Diessbachers gave me 8 of them, but 
with the condition that I lieep separate account of my ex- 
penses alone; when I informed the others that they were 
to contribute the remainder there arose a great lament; no 
one wanted to give, although the expense was for the bene- 
fit of all. There was contention in which each accused the 
other of selfishness and greed ; precious time was thus wasted, 
and our Steamer left without us, and two days were again 
wasted. 

On the 26th. This morning the Diessbachers all came to 
me at my lodgings and declared if the others would not as- 
sist they would send one or two men alone. I told them I 
dare not venture such a trip alone. We went again to the 
others and agreed as before to send two. So we again went 
to the river and engaged passage on another boat going 
that way; it is entirely new and is to make its first trip and 
we are its first passengers. 

On the 27th. We paid our passage $3.00 this morning to 
Peoria, and left the Mississippi and entered the Illinois 
River. 

28th. This forenoon we started and it took four hours of 
hard work to move the boat from the spot. Much of the 
freight Salt, Whiskey and Sugar had to be loaded on a flat 
boat. In the night the Mosquitoes tormented us so that 
we could not close our eyes from night till morning. My 
hands were all swollen as if I had the worst kind of itch. 
This evening we asked of the Captain, knowing that there 
were only two or three cabin passengers, if he could not for 
a small recompense allow us to sleep in a little room, as 
we had no bedding at all and had for two nights slept on 
floors and boxes without a particle of bedding. He let us 
know that if each paid one dollar he would provide beds 
for us. Of course we could not accept this, as we were now 
travelling at the expense of poor families. Thereupon a 
German, who had however been here over 40 years, gave us 
some bedding to use. We had hardly laid down when the 
boat again got stuck. Then arose a terrible thunder storm 
such as only America can produce. One peal followed an 



326 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS. [vol. XV. 

other close. In one respect we were glad of it for we be- 
lieved the rain would raise the river; for nothing is more 
annoying than to desire to get along as fast as possible to 
carry out our mission, and then to be stuck on one spot. 

29th Not until 9 A. M. today was it possible to move 
our boat slowly from the spot; we then steamed with various 
degrees of speed until at 3 P. M. we again stranded. We 
tried our utmost and every one who had hands worked at 
the windlass but all in vain; towards evening another steamer 
came towards us which also ran aground, but through the 
efforts of their crew were able to get off in two hours. Both 
Grob and I looked longingly at the vessel for we believed 
it possible that Judge Duerst might be on it, but although 
the two boats came so close as to touch we were unable to 
discover him. A dreary impatience possessed us because 
of our delay; we laid us down but little sleep came into my 
eyes, partly because of the Mosquitoes, but principally be- 
cause of the many people almost destitute of everything, 
that were waiting for our tidings at St. Louis. And we are 
having such a tedious trip. 

30th. This morning all of the power and muscle on the 
boat was again applied to get us off. The wood was all 
used up, and we all went into the woods, the Captain included, 
and carried out wood; the steam power was raised to the 
highest point and about ten o'clock we again moved, but 
only four hours did fortune faver us; at two o'clock we 
were again stuck but only for an hour; towards evening we 
reached the village of Pekin and made i hour's halt; we 
used the time to purchase from a German, Swiss cheese, 
but made in America, and bread, for we had not provided 
enough in St. Louis for us, and on the boat food was too 
dear. We started and hoped to be in Peoria for night, but 
we stuck once more 5 miles from that place. 

31st. Today we rose at dawn and as our boat was aground 
as if it had grown there, we went on a flat boat also the 
crew; but you can imagine what snail's pace it was — a boat 
manned by only eight men loaded with many tons of freight 
to row against the stream ; and some of them so drunk as 



l845-] DIARY OF A NEW GLARUS COLONIST. 327 

to fall in the water at times; we only arrived at 12|- o'clock 
in Peoria. Here good counsel was scarce ; we inquired at 
the Postofifice how far it was to Peru and the fare; it was 
75 miles, they demand ^4.00 for each of us. We could not 
agree to that for we had only that much money in all with 
us. As there were no boats for Peru we had to march to 
Rome, a small village ; here we met a German tailor, a friendly 
good man, he told us that near by a farmer named Under- 
hill owned 1,000 acres enclosed land which he would rent in 
small or large parcels ; it was plowed and he would supply 
tenants with cattle, tools and food and necessaries on credit 
and that his rent could be paid with produce. The rent 
was $1.00 per acre per year, or if one prefers, one third of 
the products. Dwellings were on the land and nearly all 
of the village belongs to the same man; and as it was called 
Rome, he was termed the Pope. The tavern in which we 
lodged belongs to him; we had to pay for lodging and two 
meals, one dollar for both. 

August 1st. This morning I went to the German tailor for 
whom I mended three tin dishes, while my companion Grob 
wrote a letter to St. Louis to report our trip so far. This 
tailor named Brodbeck urged me to settle here because there 
was no tinner here and the town was growing and much 
building was done. That although he was a tailor he had 
often mended tinware for farmers, for which they paid well; 
and as I understood working in copper and iron, I would find 
a bright future. I might first rent a few acres then buy. 
That he also came poor into this country and now had 2 
cows, 4 calves, Hogs and a horse, a pretty house, and a good 
young wife, but I could not stay. We went always on foot, 
for the fare for us both was $5.00 to Peru on the stage. 
Our road led us through regions that would rejoice the eye 
of the most despondent, many miles over the Prairies on 
which countless herds of cattle could have bathed in the 
thick rich grass. Then again through pleasant woods, good 
water everywhere and pure air, here and there a settler; 
at times we stopped and asked for and received buttermilk. 
We strode forward stoutly, neither of us quite sure that 



328 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS. [vol. XV. 

we were following the right course, until about 2 P. M. we 
came to a farmhouse where we drank buttermilk again, and 
by signs asked the lady of the house to give us some din- 
ner, which she promptly did and prepared us a good meal ; 
we had Coffee this time and also Salad. In our Glarus land 
there is many a so-called hotel that could not entertain and 
provide as well as is the usual custom in even the poorest 
loghouses here. After we had refreshed and rested our- 
selves we sought to go farther, but it is tiresome to travel 
over fields where for miles there are no houses or shade 
trees to be seen. No water to quench our thirst, and for 
many hours meet no human being who might give us in- 
formation, and those we meet we cannot make understand 
us; it is difficult to find out the names and distances of the 
different places. Some of them appear stupid to us. The 
oft-praised enterprise and activity of Americans seems to 
be lacking here; the people are said to work only i of the 
year, half of which they plant and hoe and the other they 
harvest and gather their crops; the remainder of the time 
is spent in hunting or other favorite enjoyment or they lay 
on their backs and smoke cigars. The cattle cause them 
no care. They come towards the evening to the dwellings 
and if milk is needed so much is milked as they need, and 
then they are again driven off to the woods or prairies. 
Sheep are kept mostly for the wool, the yield of which every 
year pays the value of the sheep, for it is as dear as with 
us. The flesh of these animals has little value. We again 
reached the Illinois River and were ferried across into the 
village of Lacon ; here we inquired of three Bavarian Jews 
how far it was to Peru, and who showed us the house of a 
German; he was from Alsace, named Schwarz, who had a 
large family, some grown sons, who were all very friendly 
and received us as if we were relatives and fed us well even 
to cooking an omellette in the morning. These people are 
only in this country four years, but have very much cattle, 
sheep, poultry and three horses, 100 acres of Land; it is 35 
miles to Peru and we decided to get a teamster to take us 
the rest of the way even if our money was all to go, and 



X845-] DIARY OF A NEW GLARUS COLONIST. 329 

we be obliged to beg our way back. If only we could get 
there soon, so as to be relieved from this painful uncer- 
tainty. The oldest son of Schwarz hitched two horses to 
a wagon and drove with speed six miles, where he forded 
the river to the other side at the village of Henry, from 
there we rode over a prairie whereon for leagues in every 
direction no dwelling could be seen, not even a shrub, let 
alone a tree is to be met, but so much hay that all the barns 
in Glarus Land could not hold it, and no person to make 
use of it. Thousands of cows could feed here without the 
cost of a cent, because it is all Congress land; after pass- 
ing over this Prairie we came to a log house where our 
horses were fed, and we prepared our dinner American fash- 
ion; after dinner we drove towards the forest and for many 
miles rattled over brush, stumps, stones, and ditches, over 
logs that we would saw into boards in Switzerland. So 
that at first I was scared; once we nearly capsized on a 
steep hillside — luckily one of the wheels caught in a stump, 
or team and contents would have rolled over to the bottom. 
We unhitched the horses and walked ^ mile till we came 
to a log house where lived a native who came back with 
us and helped to get our wagon to rights and showed us 
the proper direction to take. We had to drive with our 
team up a steep hillside covered with brush ; there was no 
track; when we got to the top we drove a couple of miles 
through fine oak timber, but still trackless, and our driver 
was uncertain if we were right but drove on until we came 
to a house where Y<^e inquired the way, with the result that 
we had to turn back a mile to get the right road; then we 
drove until evening where we turned in at the house of a 
German from Bavaria, who entertained us in princely style. 
' We sank deep in his fine feather beds; at our request this 
man accompanied us to Peru; as he was well acquainted 
there, we believed he might be able to assist us. 

On the third of August arrived at Peru, and stopped with 
a German cooper and had dinner; afterwards went to the 
post office and made inquiries about the experts; the post- 
master informed us that the three men had gone to Wis- 



330 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS. [vol. XV. 

consin and had given directions in case letters for them 
should arrive to forward them. Then we were in great 
straits ; our money is nearly all gone, and it costs 12 dollars 
for us both on the stage to Wisconsin. As we were en- 
gaged in fruitless discussion on our condition, a countryman 
of ours, named John Freuler of Ennethuehls came to us; 
we asked him if he could lend us this money until we could 
find the experts, when we would send it back. He not 
only was ready to loan it, but offered to travel with us al- 
though he was at work here; we went ourselves in the even- 
ing to see his employer, who did all in his power to induce 
him to stay, but Freuler resolved to go with us. "We had 
to remain once more overnight with the cooper in Peru. 
Peru was founded 8 years ago and is not large yet. The 
Illinois River flows on one side of it and on the other is a 
mountain. There is only one street through it, there are 
two churches. It is believed that it will be an important 
place when the canal now being built shall be completed, 
which shall connect Peru with Chicago. 

On the 4th my companions Grob and Freuler went out 
about a mile to engage a farmer if possible who would carry 
us for less money than the stage, but the farmer had other 
uses for his horses and another asked 30 dollars. So we 
found it best to take the stage, where we each paid §3.18. 
At 8 A. M., we left in an old stage which ought long since 
to have been retired; besides us three there was a gentle- 
man, his wife and son; we rode in this ancient chest about 
16 miles where the horses and stage were changed, but such 
a miserable conveyance, a farmer's wagon with a torn 
cover of the kind that gypsies use with us, and a road on 
which God's mercy was needed; the horses were changed 
every five hours; for these, it is a pity that they cannot run 
on a Glarus road. In America everything is the opposite 
of Switzerland, — here the horses excel those of the noblest 
lord, but the most miserable beggarly vehicles; there, ele- 
gant carriages, but mostly poor mean horses; when the 
mail arrived at Glarus the horses nearly fell from exhaus- 
tion; here, at the end of their stage, one could hardly hold 



1845.] DIARY OF A NEW GLARUS COLONIST. 



OJJ 



them ; there were always four hitched up and we rode the 
whole day over prairie vast as an ocean; for many miles 
we could see nothing but the sky and the meadows, no 
tree, shrub, house or person to be seen; the eye was lost 
in its immensity; then came the seam of a forest which re- 
minded me of the time when we first saw land from the 
Ocean. In the vacant land we saw today, all Glarus would 
have room, — no- one uses it, and the grass rots where it 
grows; the roads are very poor, when one track becomes 
worn or impassible another is made alongside so that often 
3, 4 or more tracks are thus made. At 6 P. M. we arrived 
at the village of 8tepton, on the Rock River; here we got 
another driver and changed horses but not wagons; after 
riding six miles the whole outfit was ferried across the 
river to the village of Grand Detour, where we spent the 
night in the stage station for which we paid a dollar for all 
three, without breakfast. 

On the 5th at 3 A. M. we again started in a better wagon 
and again splendid horses; and at 8 A. M. arrived at Free- 
port where we ate a hearty breakfast and only 25 cents for 
all three. In Freeport we had a still better wagon and 
three more passengers, of whom two were from Pennsyl- 
vania and could speak good German. They commended our 
project very much, they assured us that we would succeed 
especially well in the manner in which we had planned. 
We arrived at a station near dark, which lies lonely near a 
wood, but in which we had a supper at a price equal to that 
of the Hotel Bauer, in Zurich. Changed horses and wagons 
and again rattled with great speed until we reached Galena, 
where we got out in a heavy storm and remained at the 
stage station over night. 

Next morn, the 6th, we had breakfast at a German tavern. 
Yesterday we rode through a most charming country ; even 
the two Pennsylvanians greatly admired it and said that 
the people in Pa. had no conception of its great beauty — 
how much less those in Germany. About 12 o'clock we ar- 
rived on foot at Apple River 10 miles from Galena; here we 
are already in Wisconsin Territory. Lead is mined every- 



332 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS. [vol. XV. 

where, often found only a few feet below the surface and 
nearly pure; it merely requires melting and casting in 
forms. 1000 lbs. mineral brings ^19.00. Often a man is able 
to mine many hundred lbs. in one day, on the other hand 
many hunt for weeks and find nothing. I have just learned 
that Captain Enz, who lived at Constance, whom I visited 
there in 1834 with my father, lives 19 miles from here and 
keeps a boarding house; at this place we got a team that 
took us 20 miles; we had walked 10 miles. This place is 
newly started and I cannot find its name. 

On the 7th "We did not wait for our teamster this morn- 
ing, but left at 4 A. M. and walked the distance of twelve 
miles to Mineral Point by 9 o'clock, and had breakfast with 
a farmer on the way. After arriving at Mineral Point we 
again made inquiries for the experts and found that they 
had bought land 30 miles from here, and were waiting with 
longing for us, for they had received no news at all from 
or concerning us. We resolved therefore to travel there as 
the object of our trip was there — namely, the finding of 
the experts. A kindly German made inquiries for a con- 
veyance for us, for in a sparsely settled country like this 
where one sees no houses often for 6 leagues, it is not well 
to travel on foot especially when one is in haste as we are. 
We ate dinner and asked if the team were ready ; the answer 
came that we must first pay eight dollars before a start 
would be made. This perplexed us. We had not seen any 
money for a long time, and Preuler had only a 20-franc piece 
left, which we would need for food on the way. So we went 
to our German and unfolded our condition to him, for we 
wanted to fulfill our commission at all hazards, even to sell- 
ing the coats from our backs for the means; but this honest, 
kindly German did not desert us in our need, he gave his 
written security for us, and on this they drove off with us. 
After riding 25 miles we came to a lonely house where we 
staid over night. 

They had told us at Mineral Point that the experts were 
located only 6 miles from this place, but the people here 
said it was 20 miles or more further, and it almost ap- 



1845.] DIARY OF A NEW GLARUS COLONIST. 333 

peared to me that an invisible charm kept us from getting 
any nearer to these men. But we left here this 8th of August 
at 7^ A. M. and rode all the time until afternoon, when our 
teamster switched off to the right and drove a couple of 
miles through a valley, where we finally came to a log 
house and saw again human beings the first since morn- 
ing. Our teamster made inquiries and ascertained that 
they were yet 2 miles further on; again we proceeded to 
another house, there our driver halted and would go no 
farther. We however prevailed upon him to at least go 
with us on foot and show us the direction to take, for 
there was neither track nor road. A boy showed us along 
a piece further in the proper direction, until we saw men. 
Grob and I had taken another direction, but had to turn 
back because we could not cross the creek which flows 
through our land and which swarms with good fish. Judge 
Duerst and Mr. Streiff saw us floundering along, and in the 
supposition that perhaps we were people of their company, 
they came to meet us. The feelings that then rose in us, I 
cannot and will not describe. To all of us came the tears 
of joy. After the excitement of finding each other had sub- 
sided in a measure, we went into the huts they had made 
at first. You may imagine that from both sides came many 
questions and answers until late at night. They prepared 
supper for us — Judge Duerst baked the bread. We also the 
same evening walked a short distance over our land and en- 
joyed the splendid sight — it is beautiful beyond expectation. 
Excellent timber, good soil, many fine springs and a stream 
filled with fish. Water sufficient therein the whole year to 
drive a mill or saw mill. Wild grapes in abundance. Much 
game. Deer, Prairie Chicken and Hares, in short all that 
one could expect. This 8th August is therefore the for- 
tunate day on which we arrived at the glad certainty as to 
the whereabouts of our land and our expert pioneers. 

On the 9th of August we. Judge Duerst and I, rode away, 
to bring our people from St. Louis to the settlement with 
a Mr. Rodolf a Swiss from Aargau who had been here to 
assist our experts for several days. He had been their 



334 WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS. [vol. XV. 

guide in the search for land and conveyed them from place 
to place with his horses.^ Mr. Grob and Freuler, who had 
come with me from Peru, staid, but came with us a short way 
to cut a road through the woods and to mark the trees so we 
should not get lost; but it began to rain in streams, which 
compelled them to return. But we took some stakes along, 
to drive into the prairies the better to find the return route; 
we so proceeded until noon when we had dinner with a 
farmer. In the evening we arrived at Mr. Rodolf 's farm of 
220 acres, but he has no wife. 

We staid there over night and the next morning on the 
10th went afoot to Galena where we arrived in the even- 
ing after a hard march; this same evening we went to the 
river to see about a steamer; there were two but both were 
bound up the river; on one of them however we learned 
that another would arrive in the night to return tomor- 
row to St. Louis. We went to get some much needed rest, 
especially I, who from the hardships undergone had a se- 
vere dysentery which has much weakened me. 

On the evening of the 11th we really saw from the garret 
window where we three had slept on a straw tick, that an- 
other steamer had arrived. We hurried to get there but I 
had not proceeded more than half way, having been delayed, 
when to my glad astonishment I saw Judge Duerst completely 
surrounded by our people ; what a scene that was ! ^ I had in 
my thoughts already pictured the joy of meeting them 
again with Judge Duerst at my side. I joined myself to the 
crowd and I was also greeted with glad shouts. How much 
greater was the gladness with the Judge? for we Diess- 
bachers especially, loved him as our life. So much depended 

^ See Theodore Rodolf s " Reminiscences of Wisconsin Territory," posi. 
He advised the Swiss colonists; and his brother Frederick entertained 
them at the family farm on which the Rodolfs had settled in 1834. — Ed. 

"See Wis. Hist. Colls., xi, pp. 359, 360. The remainder of the party, 
left in St. Louis, alarmed at the long absence of Mathias Duerst and Paulus 
Grob, had engaged passage to Galena, happening to arrive there on the 
evening before Judge Nicholas Duerst had reached that town to engage 
passage to St. Louis, to escort them to Wisconsin. — Ed. 



l845-] DTARY OF A NEW GLARUS COLONIST. 335 

upon him. But the greatest pleasure is often dimmed. I 
found my wife quite sick. When we arrived at St. Louis she 
was more fleshy than ever before, now she appeared like a 
shadow. It was high time for all to leave St. Louis; the un- 
healthy climate there has already cost us five human lives, 
all however children, of whom the oldest was the 11-year- 
old son of Henry Stauffacher of Matt. The intoxicating 
joy did not subside for some time, for our people are not 
yet naturalized to control their feelings. In this country, 
people make little show on going and coming, and when 
a child departs from the parents, even for life, the only 
expression of feeling is a clasp of the hands and a short 
good bye from both sides. But I am parting from my 
subject nearly as easily as one American parts from an- 
other. But there was much to be done now, first the bag- 
gage had to be weighed. The contract was that they should 
pay 25 cents for overweight. The Captain had ordered 
it loaded into a flat boat, a heavy storm broke upon it and 
nothing having been covered and many of the trunks hav- 
ing been broken by the frequent handling, we had cause for 
complaint not only because of overweight but also for 
damaged baggage. The Judge had a letter of reference to 
one Mr. Zoya, he and Grob went to see him and I was de- 
tailed to supervise the weighing and note each one's weight. 
I got into a hot argument with the Captain — I held up 
the rainwashed bed clothing under his nose, so that he 
drove me off the boat twice. But without fear I came back 
the third time. I told our people we would weigh the bag- 
gage, note it down and bring it ashore, and not pay any- 
thing, and so it went, though George Legler and another 
were obliged to be surety for the freight charges. The 
Judge and Mr. Grob engaged a dwelling so as to bring the 
people under the shelter of a roof, for there were yet sev- 
eral sick among them. The Judge himself engaged a Ger- 
man doctor who wrote down the ailment of each patient 
and prescribed the necessary medicines. The Judge de- 
cided that a troop of the men should go on foot in advance, 
partly because the expense of travel would be less, but 



33^ WISCONSIN HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS. [vol. XV„ 

more important to provide further accommodations on the 
land. He bought us 4 hams and gave me the task to go 
to our land with these men, because he believed I could 
find the way better than, alas, I did find it. This was for 
me a hard tasli ; my sick wife implored me with tears not to 
leave her again, for even though the others promised to 
care for her their first thoughts would be for themselves. 
I really needed a couple of days' rest myself for I was 
greatly exhausted from my trip, and the third very im- 
portant point was, that I was expected to show 17 men the 
way, and was hardly sure that I could find it again, for 
America is no Glarus land. For there, there is only one, 
but a good road, and villages every ^ league, or houses where 
one can speak to people; but here, there are very many 
and bad roads which often cross each other, running over 
prairies taking i day to cross, or through equally long 
stretches of timber in which there are many by-roads and 
other roads leading sometimes to settlements, — such roads 
are often better than the chief roads; then again 10 to 20 
miles with no house, and when finally one reaches a house 
we cannot understand each other ; often we meet people who 
give little or nothing for good money. All these things one 
at home cannot imagine. I declared I would go if my wife 
consented, then they all urged her to consent, and she 
finally said yes. Then a start was made, everyone was im- 
patient to be gone, we waited only until the Judge had re- 
turned from the doctor's to get the medicines. Too much 
haste in Baltimore no doubt caused the great delay at St. 
Louis. Well, we marched off about 4 o'clock and traveled 
until late in the night and found we had already gone 
astray but not seriously. We lay down in a shed, in straw 
and dirt. 

On the morning of the 12th, again went forward until we 
came to a village which I recognized. We would have liked 
to leap for joy, but our weary legs did not carry out our 
desire. Baltz Duerst especially had been ill the day before 
and today was worse, and had he not at home been hard- 
ened by excessive labor, he would have succumbed. We 



[845-] DIARY OF A NEW GLARUS COLONIST. 337 

thronged along the whole day until 4 o'clock when we came 
to a house, and not far from that house I should have turned 
off to tbe right in the woods. I did not observe it, but 
soon saw that I had missed the road ; fearful of hearing re- 
proaches, in the hope soon to again reach the right course, 
I gathered my strength together and ran ahead. I came to 
a house, the others soon came along and we had some milk 
boiled for Baltz, it refreshed him considerably. From this 
house it would have been only I- mile to Mr. Rodolf had I 
had the luck to have taken a hardly visible timber road. 
I however followed a plain track which led to a wood; tbe 
fear of going wrong spurred me. I felt no more weariness. 

1 sprang ahead like a deer until I met a horseman who led 
another saddled horse. I at once inquired for Mr. Rodolf 
and he gave me to understand that he knew him and lived 

2 miles from him. He urged me to sit on the other horse. 
I gave him to understand that I preferred going on foot until 
we met the men who followed me. On meeting them he dis- 
mounted and traced with a stick in the dust the direction we 
should take; he would not allow me to dismount, but rode 
with me ahead in another direction. I did not then know 
for what reason; he took me over hills and ravines and 
through brush so that we often had to lie down on our 
horses, to avoid being brushed off. It was only so that we 
should get to Rodolf sooner, so as to give him notice of 
our arrival. The man informed Rodolf what was coming 
and I turned and ran again to meet the men. and brought 
them to the house where we found refreshments. Mr. Ro- 
dolf placed everything at our command; but one can imag- 
ine how it is to get 18 men at once into one's house and to 
entertain them. 



LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 



015 910 301 8 ♦ 



